Boutique Accommodation overview

Boutique hotels Casa Bonay and Hotel Brummell are seeking to reduce the disconnect between tourism and local culture. Also looking in that direction are the Yök apartments and the Praktik mini-chain.

I’m biased, as Hotel Brummell has long become as regular a haunt as finances allow. I feel a loyalty to the lovely staff, the low-key cool Poble Sec neighbourhood feel; the great restaurants on the doorstep. It’s a relaxed base from which to work or play. One day I’ll make it to the penthouse with an outdoor bathtub overlooking Montjuic. See more detail on the Brummell here.

You never forget your first love, but your head might be turned by a glamorous uptown model, and on my last visit I tried out Casa Bonay. While I missed the old barrio, I couldn’t help but be seduced by the buzz of the fabulous lounge.

“Casa Bonay is set on making a contribution to the city”

Opened by a group of entrepreneurial friends in 2016, is not just a stylish hotel but a coffee bar (the esteemed Satan’s Corner), an independent bookshop, a restaurant, a club, a rooftop. It’s a nicely done-up Neoclassical building in the Example, and does feel like the work of a group set on making a contribution to the city. It’s said there are more locals than residents at some of their events. See spotlight on for more detail.

Excellent value are the funky Praktik collection of hotels. Each has their own special theme: bakery, wine, garden etc. I stayed at the bakery, and while it’s not a particularly personal experience, you do rise from fresh white rooms to the smell of baking pastries.

Tables are reserved for residents in the lively cafe extremely popular with locals. A mini-chain, they are not corporate-feeling and their staff uniforms are made by Dona Kolors (an ethical clothing brand offering opportunities to women at risk of social exclusion). And of course they’re legal, which is more than can be said for many of the city’s Airbnbs.

“Don’t be surprised to see Graffiti hostile to Airbnb”

So, Airbnb. We’ve all been there - let’s face it, it’s a good deal. A good deal for some anyway. What we initially saw as an efficient way of putting cash in the pockets of locals turned out to be a force for driving up demand for rent-to-buy, and consequently rents, in areas unsuited to big tourist groups. Don’t be surprised to see graffiti hostile to the San Franciscan giant, especially in Barceloneta and the Raval.

There are so many unlicensed Airbnbs in the city that the council has a whole team of people dedicated to shutting them down - and they do, dozens every day. So rather than arrive to find your host being fined, maybe find somewhere else to sleep.

It’s kind of frustrating that Barcelona council don’t help us out by advising on accommodation that would be more city-friendly than Airbnb. Maybe one day…

We had high hopes for Fairbnb, where commission goes to local communities, social housing and gardens rather than to California, and hosts are only allowed to list one property. Some great ideas and intentions, unfortunately not yet matched by actual properties.

“Yök apartments come with their own manifesto”

If it’s an apartment you’re after, see those of Yök, they have three pricey beauties in the Eixample. Where to start with these women? Petz and Mari have restored buildings with super-stylish eco-luxury credentials. I love that their website has an actual manifesto - which kicks off with their aim to “represent the real Barcelona at all times”, with an earnestness and sincerity that is so un-British. They will organise events and tours, and I bet they’d be top. Their blog is a good read, with a sustainable bent. Yök is a pun on the Catalan work Lloc, meaning place, and they do seem to create a great sense of it. I’m desperate to try them out, but don’t tell the Brummell.

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